The Best of the Basque
I work with many clients who love traveling for food and wine (as do I!) and there is one small, but important culinary destination that comes up over and over again with clients - San Sebastian.
This city on the northern coast of Spain is a food (and wine) lover’s dream - it has the highest number of Michelin-starred restaurants per capita in the world (11 in a city of less than 200,000 people). In fact, the Basque Country, where San Sebastián is located, has the most three-star Michelin restaurants in Spain. Some say the Basque Country has one of the most varied and extensive gastronomies in the world.
Have I piqued your interest now in this tiny corner of the world, straddling Spain and France?
The Basque Country consists of four provinces in northern Spain and another three in south west France. The main cities in Spain are Bilbao, San Sebastian (Donostia) , Vitoria-Gasteiz and Pamplona in Navarre. In France, you’ll find the resort cities of Biarritz, Saint-Jean-de-Luz, Ciboure, and Hendaye. The Basque speak a language that is among the oldest in Europe and are ethnically distinct from the people who surround them in France and Spain. Without getting into the politics of the region (which is complex and beyond my full comprehension), I do want to share why it’s a place you should not miss.
In Spain, it’s not just about the Michelin-starred dining. In fact, one of the most famous ‘dishes’ of this area is pintxos, small snacks mostly in sandwich form, that dominate the casual restaurant scene in places like Bilbao and San Sebastian. Wander into a pintxo bar, pick out a few items to try, order a drink, and…that’s it! Feel free to order more or move on to the next pintxo bar, likely right next door. My first night in San Sebastian when there in 2018, I wandered from bar to bar just trying everything and drinking incredible wine. This is my kind of bar crawl!
Other highlights of the region include Bilbao, most famous for its Frank Gehry-designed Guggenheim Museum, well worth a visit. And the Basque region is surrounded by farms and vineyards that produce all of the amazing food and wine you find in the region so there are plenty of opportunities to travel around Basque Country taking in the landscapes and doing some wine tasting. You may also choose to visit Pamplona, known for its annual running of the bulls, before making your way to another part of Spain. In fact, Basque Country can easily be paired with other destinations in Spain, such as Barcelona, which presents an opportunity to see varied parts of the country.
However, you may also choose to cross the border into France and experience their version of Basque life.
For the more traditional aspects of the culture, you must visit Bayonne - the city is home to the Basque Museum (quite interesting way to learn about the culture though be warned that everything is in French, Spanish, or Euskara, the Basque language). The resort cities like Biarritz tend to be more popular with tourists and it’s easy to see why. The beautiful coastal city is famous for its beaches and well known as a destination for wealthy travelers. There are streets full of cute boutiques, surf shops, and wine bars. I was there in the off season (October) which meant lots of wind, cooler weather, and fewer tourists. So while I didn’t get to experience the peak of Biarritz bougie beach vibes, I had a chance to see a quieter version of the seaside town. Before you depart, make sure to try the famous gateau Basque, a traditional dessert of the region.
Where to Stay
In San Sebastian, opt for Hotel Maria Cristina, the most luxurious and storied hotel in town. The hotel is a massive Belle Epoque mansion in the heart of the city. You’ll find a mix of modern and classic styles in this grand hotel. For something more boutique and modern, stay at the Nobu Hotel. The hotel, with just 17 guest rooms, overlooks La Concha Bay and is right on the beach and walking distance to everything the city has to offer.
In Biarritz, the top tier hotel is the Hotel du Palais in Biarritz. The hotel reopened in the summer of 2022 after three years of renovations. The hotel was originally the summer residence that Napoleon III built for his wife in 1855. The Hotel du Palais overlooks the magnificent Biarritz Beach. Inside, you’ll find unique furnishings, rare paintings and refined tapestries afford a timeless charm, steeped with history.
If you want to get outside of the cities and explore the region of Rioja, check out Hotel Marqués de Riscal, a Luxury Collection Hotel, designed by Frank Gehry. On site, you will find Michelin-starred gastronomy, the oldest winery in Rioja, and the Spa Vinothérapie® Caudalie.
For all of the hotels mentioned above, clients of Brilliant Escapes received exclusive amenities when booking with us.
Ready to experience the Basque region for yourself?